4. The search of the perfect wave
There are almost no words to describe the feeling of riding THE perfect wave. It’s you and the wave and everything else around you fades away.
When that wave gets smooth as butter and the wind is side-off that’s when the magic happens. You pick your wave follow it in, wait for the critical moment, that’s when you start your bottom turn. Very important is sitting low and bending your knees, let that butt stick out. Make sure it’s nice and edgy before heading for your top turn. Make sure to hit it just before it breaks, so it’s nice and steep. That will give you the YiihAAA feeling.